Authentic cuisine 美食一定要 “正宗” 才好吗？

　　Authentic¹ cuisine² 美食一定要 “正宗” 才好吗？

 

　　同一道美食在不同的地方可能会有不同的做法。但有些人认为，一道菜一定要原汁原味才行，如果听说了某家餐厅的饭菜 “不够正宗”，就会避而远之。本期节目探讨为什么人们在谈论食物时强调正宗，以及 “正宗” 的定义到底是什么。

　　词汇：food 食物

　　As a result of trade, travel and migration³, different cuisines⁴ have spread across the world. Many recipes, chefs and restaurants try to claim that their example of a particular culinary tradition is the most authentic. But is this a good thing?

　　People care about authenticity⁵ because food traditions are closely linked to identity, particularly for migrant communities. Sociologist⁶ and professor of food studies, Krishnendu Ray, explains that home cooking is often the last way that communities can show their identity. British celebrity⁷ chef Jamie Oliver was accused of trying to take advantage of positive feelings about Jamaica. His ready meal product had a Jamaican name, but was unlike genuine Jamaican cooking.

　　However, food consultant⁸ Sara Kay asks whether there are problems with the idea of authenticity. She highlights that these ideas often come from the expectations that majority cultures have about minority cultures and their food. These can be restricting – restauranteurs have complained that people expect Asian food to be cheaper than that from European cultures.

　　Expectations can also give people a false idea of what is authentic. While large cities are full of eateries representing different countries – China, India, Italy, Mexico and more – these labels can oversimplify the reality of food from these countries. Stephanie Elizondo Greist was surprised by the difference between regional specialities in different parts of Mexico and what she ate growing up as a Mexican-American in Texas, but feels that both are authentic examples of Mexican food.

　　A more controversial view of authenticity was stated by American Chef Andrew Zimmern, who claimed that he could bring Chinese dishes to Minnesota in a more authentic way than existing restaurants – many of which are owned by Chinese-Americans. Writer and food podcaster Ruth Tam points out that while these restaurants altered their menus to suit local tastes, so does Zimmern. So, while food and identity are closely linked, and failure to respect authenticity can cause offence, could there be problems with the whole idea of authenticity?

　　词汇表

　　cuisine 菜肴

　　recipe 食谱

　　chef 厨师

　　restaurant 餐馆，餐厅

　　culinary tradition 烹饪传统

　　food tradition 饮食传统

　　food studies 食品研究

　　home cooking 家庭烹饪

　　celebrity chef 明星大厨

　　ready meal 即食餐，方便食品

　　cooking （用特定方法烹制的）饭菜

　　restauranteur 餐馆老板

　　eatery 小饭馆

　　regional speciality 地方特色菜

　　dish （一道）菜，菜肴

　　menu 菜单

 

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